Sunday, October 01, 2017

Questions from Readers

There's no real easy way to reply back to the comments left on the blog, so I took the liberty of taking one I received, and  re-posting it here.

Original post:

Hi Kiera-Oona,

Please may I ask if you ever got around to making the second video tutorial for the crazy quilt? I've been trying to find something similar to help me, even a decent book reference for crazy quilting would be great, but I cannot find out how to finish it anywhere. Do you back them onto anything after you've sewn your pieces together, sew the squared up pieces together without any backing or machine embroidery and what is used for batting and borders please? I'm sure I'm not the only curious novice person to know how the end result should be and look. I found your fist crazy quilt tutorial brilliant, but as a complete newbie I have no idea how to progress past your first tutorial. Thanks in advance. Kind regards, Michelle (Johnson) from the UK xx

 My reply:

Hello Michelle,

I never did get around to making a second video on how to 'sandwich' a quilt.  However, I did a picture based post quite some time ago which is still on this blog:

You can find it by following this link: 

To back my quilt, all I used was a big bed sheet.  I know pro quilters out there will say that's not the way to do it cause the thread count is too high.  I wanted something that was in the size of the quilt I wanted to make.  Why not re-use?  For my crazy quilt, I didn't use any batting between my layers.  I just stuck my back sheet onto it, and did a bit by machine, and a bit by hand.  I've also been using it as a teaching method to people on how to do embroidery and hand stitching.  I find it will add character if I allow people to use it as a piece to work on, and it adds to the final piece.

 By quilting standards, I'm still a novice myself.  The only difference is I have used a sewing machine for a lot longer for clothing than for quilting.

As for video references, there are a LOT of tutorials out there for both beginners and advanced quilters out there.  I'm sure if you look by the correct terms, or go through quilting association websites, they have a plethora of resources for you to look through.  I even found ones on how to do the binding on quilts (the edge of fabric all the way around the border made with fabric cut on the bias).   In the link I included, there's also a tutorial on how to sandwich your layers and how to sew it using a home machine.  I hope it helps.


So, if you have a question out there that you want to ask about a project that I posted on earlier, please Email me rather than using the comments section below.  I will try to reply directly, or possibly post it up depending on the question to help others.

My email address is keira (dot) oona (at) Gmail (dot) com. Just replace the words in the brackets with the appropriate punctuation.  This keeps spam bots away.

Saturday, May 27, 2017

Time for a name change (of the blog)

I've been thinking of changing the name of this blog. It will have DIY in it, but I'm kinda stuck on what the new title of this page (and my facebook/youtube/ravelry) should be.
Any suggestions?

As there is no easy way of replying through comments, please E-mail me directly at kiera (dot) oona (at) gmail (dot) com


Saturday, May 13, 2017

Time to do some spring cleaning....on the internet

I decided to take the time to cull some posts that aren't really related to this blog anymore.   I felt it was time to streamline this blog a bit, and clear out some of the clutter.

What I do want to do in the future,  is provide solid links for patterns.  Hopefully in the future, more tutorials both either in video format, or step by step instructions.

Sunday, April 24, 2016

LARP prop: Fabric psychic state counter - PDF instructions

At our LARP game, the club has been making efforts to minimize waste and littering while on the grounds.  We used to associate psychic abilities with purple duct tape.  Unfortunately,  the tape when used, didn't always make it to the garbage bin.

So, the club has been trying to find alternate methods.  I've been working to come up with ways to make reusable props, and eliminate litter and garbage.

I initially made a bead counter.(PDF format)  It is a good prop for a beginner, or an alternative to some of the other psychic state counters out there, but it does have some limitations. Getting the beads in and out of the sheath can be slow going.  It works great for a Psychic storage counter (we call these areas for psychic storage, a sanctum), but for on the fly battle encounters, these can be problematic in getting it into the sheathe in a hurry.

The benefit to both the bead counter, and the new fabric counter, is that you won't loose any ribbons or tape. 

This new counter makes it a bit easier to use the skills one has in a hurry, and reusing it is a ....snap!

This fabric snap system has the benefit of being fully washable, reusable, and can be made to fit almost anyone, and any colour scheme to match with your character's wardrobe.  Also because it is made out of fabric, with no lacquer, it won't get melted by bug spray.  I found over time that with the bead system, the outer coating and paint got sticky if it got doused in any bug repellent.

Follow this link to the fabric snap psychic counter tutorial. - PDF

Also, using this tutorial, you can make even larger counters by adjusting the instructions for the pattern.

Wednesday, March 09, 2016

Knitting Basics Tutorial - video

Here's a tutorial on how to knit with the basics.

Please note that I filmed it around the winter holidays.  I just hadn't had an opportunity to edit the video till later

I apologize for the needles going out of frame.  Its hard to knit and watch a separate screen and not knock the camera all at the same time.

This is how I knit (which to other knitters might look strange, but it does work), but I also show how others knit as well.  There are many different knitting styles in terms of how the needles are held, and how the yarn is knitted.

Hope you enjoy the video, and find it informative!

Saturday, February 27, 2016

Boffer Sword Tutorial - Video

The long awaited Boffer Sword tutorial is now available.  With LARP season coming up fairly soon, my sword needed a complete overhaul.  So, I took the opportunity to set up a tutorial for everyone to use to make any length of sword.

Please note, the measurements I was using for the widths of the thrusting tip and the width of the padding on the sword are primarily measurements used for Epoch Toronto weapons.  Please see your own LARP's safety team, or executive team for details on lengths and specifications when making your own weapons.

Epoch Toronto also has the maximum lengths for weapons of the various types available on their website at

Happy Larping!

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Shiniest Touque in the Verse - Knitting Pattern

As many of you out there know, I cannot sell this exact style, or colour of hat, as per a certain group of individuals with a lot of money and lawyers that say no.  Even though there are a few tweaks I made on the original hat in terms of placement of ear flaps, and the type of yarn used.

We'll call it the "Shiny Touque"

However, with this being the holiday season, and there might be some last minute knitting going on, if you have the yarn, and a few hours....I hope this makes your gift making and holiday season a bit more.....shiny.

Please keep in mind this is my personal pattern.  Y'all in the verse can use it, but please credit me back if you do.  I also have a bonus tree ornament hat you can make which takes no time to knit up at all.

You can also change the colours and the amount of stripes to match your fave sports team, or to wear your hat with pride... as per this photo below...

A word of caution:  I have made this hat so many times, but the written instructions might not seem very clear.  If anyone gets confused, please send a message and I will try to clarify. (and possibly edit this post as needed)

The Patterns:

Needles:  US 6 or 4.0 mm needles, both circulars, and double pointed needles (it makes it easier to use DPNs the closer you get to the top)

Yarn: I used Bernat Super Value solids 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn.  I have also used Patons Canadiana worsted weight 100% acrylic yarns for this pattern. (I prefer the Bernat Super Value yarn cause its ever so slightly bulkier)  I'm personally not a huge fan of Red Heart's super saver yarns, but if you wanna go for it....just make sure its worsted weight.

Colours: Red, Orange, and Yellow

Guage: I almost never guage anything...if anyone has a guage they'd recommend, please recommend it in the comments.

The pattern for the full sized touque:

Cast on 92 sts in orange.  (if you need to make it larger or smaller, decrease or increase by 4 stitches per size), join the round.

Knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end of row

Join and repeat knit 2, purl 2, for 3 more rows

Knit for 3 inches for a smaller hat, 4 inches for a slightly longer one if you changed your cast on number, or the size of your head.

After the orange section is done, switch to yellow, and knit about 3 inches (4 inches if you are making a larger hat)

Once you are done that segment, follow this next set of instructions to shape the hat:

Knit 4, Knit 2 together.  repeat till the end of the row
Knit the next round
Repeat these instructions for about an inch

Next, Knit 4, knit 2 together every row till there's about 10 stitches left.  Cast off and cinch up the hole

Add a pompom to the top in a combination of all 3 colours

I usually  lay my hat flat and mark off where the earflaps go...but thats just me...however, if you wanna do this thing we call math....count out 23 stitches from the row join on either side of the join to get where your ear flaps should go.

Loop on 16 stitches per ear flap just under the inside of the rim of the hat where your ribbing on the rim stops, and the solid knit stitch starts.  It will have a hidden cast on seam rather than attaching it right to the brim.  I loop on 8 stitches on each side of your marker where the centre of your earflaps should sit. The earflap colour is red, and be sure that your knit side is facing out

Knit 1 row, purl 1 row, complete knitting/purling across each row for 15 rows

(Instructions in brackets are depending on if you are on a purl row and not a knit row depending on what side you started your earflaps on.)

Then, Knit/Purl 1, knit 2 together (purl 2 together), Knit 10 sts, knit 2 together (purl 2 together), knit 1 (purl 1)

At the start and end of each row, you should knit 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest of the stitches except the last 3, knit 2 together, knit 1

keep going till you have 4 stitches left, then cast off

Do the other earflap

Add little tassles to the end of your earflaps.  I usually use 2-3 pieces, and leave a little bit of the yarn when I cast off.

the way the earflaps are knit, they should curl up on their own a little bit.  If they don't curl out, and just curl in,  just shape it with your fingers, and stretch it out width wize a bit, and it will sit pretty for ya.   

And now, for the mini decoration hat.  You could also possibly use this for a doll too. The orange looks a bit red in this photo, but I was also taking a really close photo with the flash on at the time.

Use the same size needles for the full size hat, US 6 or 4mm needles.  You are going to want to use DPNs for this one cause its so small.

You can also use the exact same yarn as you used for the full sized hat. (Bernat Super Saver solids 100% acrylic worsted weight yarn)

The Pattern:  

Cast on 20 stitches in Orange

Knit 1, purl 1, repeat till end of row.

Knit for 2 more rows

Switch to yellow, knit for 4 rows

Decrease every other stitch till its really tight (I forgot to count how many stitches you should have left.  I would imagine 5 at the most), decrease and cast off last row.

Loop on 3 stitches for each earflap on the underside of the brim just like the full sized one

knit and purl 3 rows, cast off, leaving little tails for your tassles

add a pompom. I used my fingers to make one but a fork might work to make your pompom as well for size.

Add a decorative ribbon, or some method of hanging your mini toque on the tree or put it on your favorite doll.

Saturday, October 03, 2015

Rug hooking - A day at the Textile Museum, and links

I apologize that it has been so long since I last posted.  Work tends to supersede my crafting. However, today was an important day.  Jenny at The Bronze Wombat and I went to the textile museum along with our friend Chinburd.  We mainly went to see the prints of famous artists like Salvador Dali and Andy Worhol, but we came across the Canadian Rug Hooking exhibit.

We took some photos, but Chinburd took some rather interesting 'Action shots' of us figuring out how to do rug hooking.  It's really not difficult at all to do....just super time consuming.

This is one of my favorite pictures because it shows what we were working on.  The blue row at the bottom is what I was working on, and Jennifer was working on the next row up with green.

This is not to be confused with Latch hooking, which is a craft I learned how to do way back in grade school (I think I was in grade 6 or 7 when I learned latch hooking).  A link on how to latch hook through Wikihow can be found by clicking here.

for Rug hooking, a very good demonstrational tutorial can be found by following this link to youtube.

Friday, April 03, 2015

Knitting tips, tricks, and websites for beginners - Content notice: Cat

Some of these tips are some that I have come to realize over the years.  Some are recommended by knitters, some are mentioned on the very silly but practical Tumblr page called Knitpool (Deadpool spoof)


*  Take your time with learning new techniques.  You don't want to frustrate yourself.

* The internet is a wonderful tool, but if you get stuck, always ask another knitter.  Having someone show you versus reading the diagrams in a book or on a webpage is very helpful.

* is an amazing resource.  You can ask for help in your local groups, find local yarn stores or locally made fiber, tonnes of free patterns or amazing ones sold by other knitters....or engage in various discussions with people from across the world.   Personally, I don't know what I would do without it.

* There are different methods and styles of knitting. Every knitter has found their own method that works for them. Just because it looks different, doesn't mean it's wrong.  As long as you get the same results, its all gravy.

* crochet hooks and safety pins can be invaluable tools when learning how to knit.  Especially to help count rows, pick up dropped stitches, or to help hold something in place. (I still use both)

* Stitch and row counters can be a lifesaver.

* Learn your core basic stitches to make learning other stitches and techniques easier.  Knit, purl, cast on, cast off, increase, decrease.  Once you learn these, you can make almost anything.

* There are all sorts of knitting needles out there.  Plastic, Wood, Bamboo, Metals.  Other knitters have insisted that bamboo helps with wrist problems.  Plastic can break if it gets cold cause it gets brittle (also with age), but this also depends on the manufacturer.  Aluminum is light, but I find in thinner gauges it can bend fairly easily. 

* It will take some time to get the tension right.  I used to knit super duper tight. Some people knit loose and it causes huge gaps.  Keep they say practice makes perfect.

* If you get frustrated, do something else for a little bit, then come back to it.

*Try and avoid what I call "stress knitting".  I have noticed that my stitches get super tight when I'm trying to knit when I'm super stressed out.

* Be careful how you store your projects and needles.  I've stabbed myself with my double pointed needles on multiple occasions.  Needle point protectors are wonderful things to have in your stash. (i have red and green sock shaped needle protectors in my collection of knitting tools)

*Setting goals for yourself is always a good thing.  Just make sure they are YOUR goals.

*Stretching and taking breaks is always a good thing, and crafting self-care is important.  Don't get so wrapped up in a project that you forget to eat or drink. Stretching your hands every so often will also prevent knitting or crafting related injuries.

*You can work at your own pace.  Not everyone works at the same speed.  It's ok if it takes a month (or years) to finish a project, so long as you enjoy doing it.


Websites: - Social site for knitting, crochet, and other fiber related activities.  Patterns, groups, yarn references, stash cataloging, needle cataloging tools, and yarny shopping.

The Anticraft - Knitting and Crafting for the dark and sinister.  Some NSFW topics or topics not safe for minors.  Wonderfully macabre ideas and patterns for knitting and sewing (and some recipes too). - Ezine for knitters with free patterns, and located right in the heart of Toronto, Ontario.  They feature quite a few local knitter's patterns. Published semi-quarterly - Lion Brand Yarn's website.  You have to make an account to get access to their patterns, but they also have an online row counter, as well as full pdf's for how to knit and crochet that you can print out for free.

YouTube - There are so many free tutorials and how-to's on youtube. 

If any other casual knitters would like to suggest websites, please comment on this post. 

Monday, February 16, 2015

Bellydance Choli Pattern - By Annabella

Back when I was still dancing, I used a fantastic choli pattern made for stretch panne velvet that was made by an Australian dancer by name of Annabella.  She has graciously given me permission to post her choli pattern with instructions here.

In the photo above, this was one of my cholis that I had made using this same pattern.  The only difference is that I used a stretch cotton for this choli in the picture. (I also realize it's being slightly hidden by the decorative bra)

Her pattern will also be posted up on in the near future. 

I will be putting the pattern pieces at the bottom of this post so the instructions don't get squished.

I have added annotations for what I did to tweak for a better fit or adjustments, and each of my annotations will be easily spotted.  I have also added suggestions for needles, fabric suggestions, and other suggestions on how you might want to sew it for a better fit.  However, I have added a minor watermark overlay to the pattern pieces (with Annabella's permission), but I have not changed the pattern itself.  I also typed out the core instructions as they were written originally, with the exception of the annotations I added.

Please note that all choli pattern pieces, original pattern, and images on this post belong to  Annabella, and original owner of Turbans Tassels and Tattoos and Aussiebellydance,   This pattern is not for commercial use, and is not to be sold.  This is for personal use only.  Instructions, patterns, and images on this blog post are being used with her permission.

Thank you Annabella for allowing me to host your pattern on my blog!  

Before I get into the directions, a few things I wanted to mention:

Each square on the pattern is 1 inch.  So, you either need a lot of photocopies to blow it up to that size, or use a photo-editing tool to increase the size so each square is an inch for the sizes listed.

Secondly  You don't have to go full sleeve if you don't want to.  I made some with half sleeves that turned out just fine.

Thirdly: For any stretch fabric you decide to use, be certain to pick up a BALL NEEDLE for your machines.  Any needles labeled "sharps, leather, denim" will put holes in your stretch fabrics and make little runs like panty hose that has a hole in it.  Ball needles works itself into the weave without causing runs. I cannot stress this enough.  You don't want your choli to last only one gig before having to make another one.


Fabric!  It doesn't really specify how much to use per se on the pattern, but if you use the pattern layout guide in the photos provided, and double the amount (because you need 2 of each piece), this should help  Fabric recommendations on the pattern are for stretch panne velvet, but you could use anything that has a decent stretch, such as knitted cotton, or certain types of baithing suit material might even do well here.  Be careful with the see-thru-ness of your fabric.  If you are using bathing suit material, you are going to want to pick up a matching non-stretch cotton for the lower band because bathing suit material has often a 2 way stretch.  The reason for this is so that the bottom band of the choli doesn't stretch out, keeping it firm  and tight under your bust so you don't have a wardrobe malfunction in the middle of a performance.

Bias tape:  I think I used 1 inch width for this pattern, but there is one choli that I used some quilting cotton and my (i think) half inch bias tape maker to make the bias edging on this pattern.

Matching thread to your fabric


Paper: to either trace out, draft, or copy out this pattern.  I use artist rolls that you can get in the kids section at Ikea for their art stand.  there's lots of paper on it and its fairly inexpensive.

Basic sewing with a sewing machine is a must for this pattern.

And now, the directions:

 (retyped from the original instructions. Most of my annotations are in brackets. )

Sewing instructions for all sizes:

-Please note that 1/4" (6mm) seam allowances are already included on all your pattern pieces

-When I make my cholis, I use both regular sewing machine and a 4 thread overlocker (serger).  In these instructions I will refer to both machines, but you can of course just use a regular sewing machine.

(Kiera-oona's suggestions:  I tend to use a zig zag stitch on the sections where it recommends an overlocker to be used.  This will help prevent your stretch panne velvet from unraveling and make it a bit nicer to wear rather than having a bunch of seams rubbing in the wrong places)

-Panne velvet can be a bit floppy and curly to sew with.  Handle it gently and be careful not to stretch any of these seams as you sew.

-Band, Band ties, and neck ties:  These strips MUST be cut as shown on the cutting layout (if using stretch velvet) - That is running from top to bottom of the fabric.  That will make them non-stretch.  If you were to cut them across the width of the fabric, they will be far too stretchy and would not make for secure bands.  The last thing you need is a baggy choli coming loose at the wrong moment.

(Kiera-oona's suggestions:  For the neck ties and the bottom band of the choli, what works really nicely is a printed or solid color matching non-stretch tight woven cotton or quilting cotton.  That way it won't stretch and you can add a bit of personality to your choli.  I have done this in the past and it works really well)

Fabric layout for the pattern:

(this is the layout you should use if you are using stretch panne velvet)

(you can click on each picture to see it full sized)

1) Make darts in front.  Stitch the darts with the sewing machine and trim away spare fabric to reduce bulk.  Finish them neatly with the overlocker.

2) Sew back to front at shoulders. Sew using your machine or overlocker..

3) Sew in sleeves.  Pin sleeve to choli, matching the centre dot to the shoulder seam.  Sew using machine or overlocker, easing the fullness at the top.

4) Edge finish the sleeve using your overlocker or Zig Zag stitch on your machine.  Don't actually make the hem yet.  just neaten the edge of the fabric. *Note: I stretch this edge when sewing, so the end of the sleeve stays stretchy

5) sew underarm and side seam in one long continuous seam using machine or overlocker

6) Finish sleeve hem using your machine straight stitch.  I stretch the hem when sewing, so that the end of the sleeve stays stretchy.  Keeping the stitch means you can easily push the sleeve up when you are wearing your choli without it becoming too tight.

7) bias edging.  This gives a lovely smooth and neat finish to the neck of your choli

     -Take the right half of your choil,  Beginning at the bottom back edge, place your choli on the sewing machine with the right side up.
     -Open up one side of the bias tape, so that the inside is facing you.  Line up the outer opened edge of the bias tape with the edge of your choli.  Using a regular machine stitch (not a stretch stitch), begin to sew along the crease of the bias fold.  Be careful not to stretch either the fabric or the tape.  Be sure to keep them both nice and smooth.
     -Sew up the back, over the shoulder, and down to the center front.  Stitch to center front dot.  Cut off the bias binding, leaving a 1/2" (1.25 cm) tail.
     -Now, take the left half of your choli.  This time you begin to sew at the center front.  Leaving a 1/2" (1.25 cm) tail of bias binding when you begin.  Sew the crease of the binding as before, up the front, over the shoulder, and down the back to the bottom edge.
     -Take the left half of your choli again, beginning at the lower back edge, turn the sewn on bias tape out and over the wrong side of your choli, enclosing the seam.  Smooth it flat and pin in place.Place your choli on the machine with the wrong side up, and stitch close to the other edge of the bias tape.  Stitch up the back, over the shoulder, and down to the center front again.
     -Repeat wiht the other side, beginning at the lower back edge, and sewing down to the center front.

8) Sew centre front seam using the sewing machine (not the overlocker just yet).  Take the time to match the darts, the bottom edge, and the "V" perfectly (or it will annoy you forever!!!).  I use the sewing machine first to make SURE those darts are perfectly aligned. Then I edge finish with the overlocker.

9) Stabilize the bottom edge of the choli

     Cut the length of bias tape that matches your choli size:

     Your size:              Cut to this length
       32-34" A-B-C         20" (51 cm)
       34-36 B-C-D          21" (53 cm)
       36-38" C-D-DD      22" (56 cm)
       38-40" D-DD-E      23" (58 cm)
       40-42" D-DD-E      24" (61 cm)

Lay the choli, right side up on the machine
     -Open up one side of the bias tape so the inside is facing you.  Lining up the outer opened edge of the bias tape with the bottom edge of the choli, pin the center of the bias tape to the center seam of the choli.
     -Pin the ends of the bias tape to the edges of the choli, leaving a 1/2" (1.25cm) tail of binding at the beginning and end.
     -Using a regular machine stitch (not stretch stitch), sew along the crease of the bias fold.  Be careful not to stretch the fabric or the tape.
     -Now turn the sewn on bias tape out and over to the wrong side of your choli, enclosing the seam.  Place your choli on the sewing machine with the wrong side up, and stitch close to the other edge of the bias tape.

10) the lower band

     -Sew the two strips together, end on end, making one long strip.  Press the seam open
     -now, fold the long strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew down the long edge using an overlocker or machine.  Keep both ends open.  Turn right side out.  At each end, tuck 1" (2.5cm) inside to finish the end.  Roll the seam between your fingers to ease it flat.
     -Pin the band to the right side of the choli, matching the center front seam of the choli with center front seam of the band, with the folded edge of the band lined up with the bottom edge of the choli.  The band ties will hang at each side.
     - Place choli on the machine right side up.  The band will be on the top of the choli, with the bottom edge of the band sitting right on top of the edge of the choli.  Starting at the very end of the left tie, stitch close to the bottom edge of the tie, sewing towards the choli.  Continue sewing all the way across the bottom of the choli and down the end of the right tie.
      -When you are stitching this band, because of the way it was cut, you will find the nap will make stitching in one direction a bit difficult (because you are stitching against the nap of the fabric).  Just pull it a bit to help the machine along.  By the way, the effect of the nap gripping itself makes for really secure ties when you are wearing the choli!
     -Now, stitch close to the top edge of the tie you just finished on.  Sew towards the choli again. When you get to the choli itself, you want the band to lie flat and smooth on the choli with the center seams matching.  Continue sewing across the choli right to the end of the other tie.
     - Go to the part where the band meets the edge of the choli.  We want to reinforce this section.  See the stitching line that holds the bias tape in place along the choli back?  Using your sewing machine, continue that stitching line down across the band to the bottom edge.  Then sew backwards and forwards at least twice more to reinforce that section.

11) the neck ties

     -Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew a 3.16" (5mm) seam using the overlocker or machine. Sew one end closed.  Turn right side out (A knitting needle, a dowel, a chopstick, or that little tool to turn tubes of fabric inside out can be used for this).
     -Pin the open end of the tie to the inside of the back of your choli - About 1" down from the shoulder seam.  Position it so the open end is towards the edge of the choli, and the tie is hanging inside.  Sew the tie back and forth along the inner stitching line of the bias binding.
     -Now flip the tie out towards the outside, folding and pinning the tie flat over where you just stitched.  Stitch through all the layers over the tie along the outer stitching line of the bias binding.  This makes a neat and secure attachment.

12)  Now to Try on your choli!

I hope that it fits you well!  You may need to adjust the shoulder ties to get a better fit.  The tightness of tying the shoulder ties really does make a difference to show how your choli fits.  Play with it and adjust it till it sits nicely.

Once you've got the neck ties just right....DON'T undo them!!  Just slip the choli over your head.  (Its much easier to put on when the neck ties are done up anyways!)

Now its done!!

Pattern pieces

Click on each image to see the full size

Front pieces:

Back pieces:

Sleeve tops:

Sleeve extentions:

Enjoy and Happy Dancing!